The public baths that used to be found on every block in Japan is getting more and more scarce. Instead of these small and simple places to wash and soak in a tub there is now more larger “spa” style of baths being built. These larger places offer a wider range of services like massage, ten different style baths, restaurant, video games and more. But they lack the old fashioned style and intimacy that the old school places have, and more there is no Yakuza Mafia there.

Unlike the “onsen” the local “sento” is just a place to get yourself clean. Dates back to the day before people had bathrooms at home. The sento is also a place to hang out and make small talk. Maybe this is why they are popular with the yakuza. Another reason could be that this is an ideal place for the yakuza to flash their tattoos. Many places let the customers know that they don’t allow people with tattoos to enter. A not so subtle way of saying “no yakuza please”.

Went to a sento close to were I live. Small place. A couple of foreigners like us were noticed and raised curiosity with the regulars. Where were we from, could we speak Japanese etc. I couldn’t help noticing the tattoo on one of the men. Covered the whole back. A samurai with the sword drawn intertwined with a dragon. If you are not Yakuza you just can not have a tattoo like this. That would be like wearing a police mans uniform not being a police man.

The man with the tattoo politely asked me if the place I was leaving by the showers was free. Dozo, please go ahead I told him, trying not to stare too much at his tattoo. Later he approached me and gave advice on which of the tubs would be suitable for me to try. I took his advice, felt like an offer not to refuse. Maybe he just wanted to small talk. Or signal who was in charge.

This was my brief encounter with the yakuza. Like others in organised crime they stay out of ordinary peoples way. It’s better for business. Though I have been told not use the Y-word in public, the same applied in Sicily where people are careful with the M-word.

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